Now, this is where the task begins.
A chick surviving the chick phase partially signifies that
the pullet and egg-laying stage will be an easy ride all things being equal.
So, here is a guide that will enlighten you on how to care
for your day-old chicks until they mature.
For clarity, we have split this process into stages to help
you know what to do at each given time.
Days 1-2
Prevent the chicks from getting chilled by setting the pen
temperature adequately.
In other words, ensure they are warm enough.
Ensure you check on the baby chicks several times in a day.
At night, ensure all the chicks make it back under the
brooder.
Also, leave the lights on all night.
This will provide illumination for the baby chicks to see to
eat and drink.
Keep your eye open for sick or dead birds. Ensure they are
taken away from the environment to avoid scare and smell.
However, keep in mind that high mortality of chicks occurs
within the first 48 hours.
But if the chicks make it out during this period, the death
rate will cease, or almost cease.
Kindly note that this is not time to put the day-old chicks
on a day/night cycle.
Days 3-4
Caring for your day-old chicks is taking shape.
From day 3, you can check up on them at least twice per day.
Ensure you do not drag the birds into a new routine
suddenly. This can cause stress and death.
At this point, you should expand the draft guard to give the
chicks more space.
Add larger feeders (15 lb), use 8ft of chick trough per 100
chicks (two 4ft troughs, four 2ft troughs, or eight 1ft troughs).
Furthermore, add larger waterers (1 gallon per 50 chicks).
Automatic waterers can serve best if you can afford them.
Each water set should be set in a way the chicks have to
stretch a little to get the water.
Also, you can discontinue all-night lights after three
nights.
Days 5-10
On day 5, expand the draft guard again if the chicks are
getting past it.
Next is to remove the quart-jar waterers gradually.
Do this until only the large-capacity or automatic waterers
remain.
Ensure you remove the first feeders gradually.
Replace them with trough or tube feeders.
If you’re using overhead heat-lamp brooders, raise them a
couple of inches higher at this stage.
However, if you’re using insulated heat lamp brooders,
reduce the wattage.
For thermostatically controlled brooders, turn it down by
5°F.
You’re likely not to experience chick mortality at this
point.
Day 10-14
For the remainder of the second week, double the amount of
feeder space.
Your chicks are becoming pullets. Therefore, you should
replace the trough feeders with ones designed for larger chicks.
Ensure you pay attention to litter quality.
You have to increase the ventilation a little at a time.
At the end of the second week: Day 14 precisely, turn down
the thermostat another five degrees.
Then raise the overhead infrared heaters two inches, or the
insulated heat-lamp an inch or two.
Week 3
At this point, your growing day-old chicks need practice
perches, except for the broilers.
Increase the ventilation some more while you turn down the
thermostat and raise the brooder higher on the other hand.
Weeks 4-5
If you have successfully cared for the chicks to this point
you need a thumbs up.
This is basically the last weeks of the brooding period.
Therefore, depending on the weather, they may no longer need
brooder heat.
For the broilers, this may last till after two weeks.
The Leghorns require this after three, and other breeds
after four.
Provide more space and larger feeders.
At this point, your chicks are mature and ready to lay eggs.
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